Types of Shirt Collars
Collar↕ | Spread (degrees)↕ | Origin↕ | Best Tie Knot↕ | Formality↕ | Notes↕ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Point Collar | 60 | Early 20th century England | Four-in-hand | Business to formal | The classic narrow collar, points angled down, slims the face, safest business choice |
Spread Collar | 100-140 | Prince of Wales (Edward VIII), 1930s | Half Windsor, Windsor | Business formal | Wider spread shows off thicker tie knots, favored in Italian and British tailoring |
Cutaway Collar | 180 | Savile Row, late 20th century | Full Windsor | Formal | Extreme spread where points nearly flatten horizontally, demands a big knot |
Button-Down Collar | 70 | Brooks Brothers, 1896 (polo inspired) | Four-in-hand or no tie | Smart casual | Points button to the shirt, American Ivy League staple, never formal |
Club Collar | 60 | Eton College, 1800s | Four-in-hand | Smart casual to business | Rounded point tips, vintage feel, Peaky Blinders revival, distinctive look |
Tab Collar | 65 | 1920s England | Four-in-hand | Formal | Small fabric tab behind the tie lifts the knot forward, dressy throwback |
Pin Collar | 70 | 1920s-30s America | Four-in-hand | Formal | Metal collar pin pierces both points under the knot, Gatsby-era elegance |
Wing Collar | 90 | Mid-1800s | Bow tie | White tie or black tie | Stiff upright band with folded tips, worn only with formal evening wear |
Mandarin Collar | 0 | Imperial China | No tie | Casual to formal | Short stand-up band with no fold, also called band collar, Nehru jacket style |
Tuxedo Collar | 90 | 1880s America | Bow tie | Black tie | Semi-spread formal collar paired with a pleated or marcella front shirt |
Camp Collar | N/A open | 1950s Cuba/Hawaii | Never | Casual | Open notched collar on a camp shirt, worn unbuttoned, summer resort staple |
Eton Collar | N/A detachable | Eton College, early 1800s | Bow tie | Ceremonial | Huge stiff white detachable collar worn over the jacket, now only schoolboy uniform |
Polo Collar | 60 | Rene Lacoste, 1929 | None | Casual | Soft knit collar on a pique shirt, invented for tennis, now universal casual |
Shark Collar | 160 | Italy, 1990s | Full Windsor | Business formal | Sharper cutaway variant, angular and modern, Pitti Uomo favorite |
One-Piece Collar | 70 | Naples | Four-in-hand | Business | Cut as a single piece with the shirt band, soft unlined Neapolitan construction |
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